For decades Burgundy was simply too ripe and inconsistent to regularly recommend. Much has changed in ten years. A run of warmer vintages, coupled with a new generation of young vignerons willing to travel and taste Pinot Noir from the world's newer regions, has spawned the competitiveness ready to breed improvement. Which landed us in Mercurey, a village in Burgundy's southern outpost known as the Côte Chalonnaise. François Raquillet is a thirtyish vigneron who has embraced a back to the vineyard philosophy. His father had left him some plots of fine Pinot Noir with older vines. By keeping yields low and minimally handling the ripe fruit, François has deftly captured the essence of fine Burgundy -- gorgeous fruit mingled with oaky spice and a lingering earthiness.
origin, the Brintet family has
been producing wine for more than 4 centuries. The Domaine now has 13 hectares (approx. 32
acres) out of the 600 in the Appellation Mercurey. The vineyards are spread over
different areas, called 'climats' (climatic zones), which produce wines with distinctive personalities,
easily noticeable upon tasting.