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from Gambero
Rosso 2001:
Alessandro and
Maura Mauri call Pinot Grigio a "technological" wine and an
ambassador for the region. Their version has superbly elegant
aromas, with hints of roses, orange and melon. These are
echoed on the palate, where they are joined by yellow peach in
a delicious progression of remarkable breadth and rich
texture. To round off, the fruit on the nose returns in the
leisurely finish. Three glasses, then for a wonderful
wine. The Gortmarin also wound up there around 90 points. A
Bordeaux blend with an impenetrable color, it unfurls rich
aromas of mulberry jam, cassis, pipe tobacco and milky coffee
on the nose. The palate impresses with its softness and
concentration, the mulberry, cassis, coffee, Peruvian bark,
and mint lingering in the finish. Tocai and Pinot Bianco
vinified in stainless steel, together with wood-fermented
sauvignon and chardonnay, go into the blend for the
butter-soft Arbis Blanc, which offers aromas of orange,
apricot and pear on nose and palate.
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As usual, the Borgo San Daniele Tocai is one of a kind.
Vineyard and cellar management policies conspire to keep its
grassy and almondy varietal hints well under control. The
result is a sunny, Mediterranean wine that purists might frown
at but is undeniably excellent. There are dried roses, melon,
peach and citrus fruits on the nose while the finish is laced
with sweet almond. Lingering peach and citrus come through on
the warm rich palate.
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You can't create a myth overnight. You need the support
of time and the influence of place. The collective imagination
is full of picturesque explanations of the origin of this
variety. More prosaically, it was first recorded in the
Austrian agricultural register of 1810 and Dalmasso attempted
the first scientific description in 1933. One thing is sure --
you can't do without this great Friuli white in your cellar.
Tocai is grown everywhere in the region but its varietal
character always stands out. A combination of experience,
sympathetic handling and technology have produced a wine that
at its best has complex aromas of nettle and almond, softness
on the palate and a slight bitter almond note in the finish --
features which should put an end once and for all to the
dispute between Tocai and Tokaji. The Hungarian cousin is a
dessert wine, aged in wood for at least five years, which can
reach up to 15 degrees of alcohol and over 5% residual sugar.
In other words, totally different from the Friuli white. A
wine incapable of ambiguity, to be served at a temperature of
12 _ 14 degrees, alongside the authentic, traditional dishes
of classic Italian cuisine.
Production Zone: Braida della Colubice, in the commune
of Cormòns
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Pinot Grigio
Pinot Grigio takes its name from the characteristic grey
color of the grape. It is a mutation of Pinot Noir and, color
apart, it maintains nearly all the features of the parent
variety. It arrived in Italy around 1830, but initially gave
disappointing results. Pinot Grigio needs very specific
growing conditions with cool, well-drained soils. It has found
an ideal habitat in Friuli where it is now firmly established,
producing regular but never abundant yields. The bunch is
small, cylindrical and very compact with ears that sometimes
resemble a second bunch. It needs very dense planting and
ripens relatively early. It can be vinified off the skins, the
method that produces greater finesse, or with short skin
contact, which gives the wine a hint of the copper-grey color
of the grape.
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Production Zone: Bosc di Sot, in the commune of Cormòns
Vinification: Grape crush followed by maceration on the
skins at 30 degrees centigrade, soft pressing, cleaning of the
must and temperature-controlled fermentation. Sur lies ageing
until the late spring in different types of maturing casks.
Assemblage and unfiltered bottling at the end of the summer.
Color: Antique golden yellow. Nose: When young, ripe fruit
prevails, principally pears. With time it acquires notes of
dry hay and roasted almonds. Palate: Full and soft, balanced
and fruity, with elegant aromatic length.
Food matches: Ideal for dishes such as rich soups or
risotto with white meat, boiled meats or chicken. Can also be
served with medium strong cheeses.
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Arbis is an
ancient name for a young wine with a message about flowers and
aromatic herbs. In Friulan arbis means grass. The natural
grasses, mown by hand, which grow between the rows of the
vineyard, give the wine its name. Grass in the vineyard is the
best way to mitigate the effects on the soil There are as many
herbs on this earth as aromas in the wines that are produced
on it. But there are only two Arbis(es). This red
one is a ruby shade, racy on the nose with its lightly
herbaceous character and red berries -- cherry,
strawberry, raspberry. Fruit aromas produced by the
balanced union of two distinguished varieties, Cabernet and
Pignolo. The first is the ancient representative of its
place of origin, the Gironde, where it certainly predates the
second. The second, with its robust personality, is
stubborn and unequivocal in its choice of sites (dry and
ventilated) but it rewards the grower who dedicates its loves
attention with its youthful intensity. With age on the
other hand it acquires the fullness of body that lies behind
the success of many of the great red wines of the
world.
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