DOMINIO DO BIBEI
Ribeira Sacra, Spain
We won't mince words: the wines of Dominio do Bibei represent the pinnacle of Ribeira Sacra. That isn't a distinction bestowed lightly - this is a region of significant potential: a mind-bogglingly beautiful panorama of green hills, sheer cliffs, and steep valleys. Bibei's Founder Javier Domínguez and his team spare no effort in farming indigenous vines against this dramatic backdrop: a grueling and even precarious challenge. But the wines of their labor showcase presence, complexity, and depth comparable to great Burgundy with character entirely their own.
Javier founded Dominio do Bibei in 2001, returning to his family's winemaking roots in the Quiroga-Bibei sub-zone of Ribeira Sacra. They, like many in the area over the last century, had moved into Spain's cities where there was more opportunity. Javier's brother is the fashion designer, Adolfo Domínguez, and Javier himself was an economist in his early years. The call of Galicia proved strong, however, and he was drawn to return to his ancestral home to revitalize dormant viticultural traditions.
It was not an easy undertaking. While breathtakingly gorgeous, Ribeira Sacra is a rugged and challenging terrain to farm: steep and precipitous with elevations up to 920m above sea level. The vineyards cascade downwards over terraces originally built by the Romans, spilling towards the region's network of rivers: the Minho, Sil, and of course, their namesake, the Bibei. Everything here must be done by hand; mechanization impossible on these hillsides, both due to the structure of the terraces themselves and the incline.
Recognizing the monumental task ahead and his relative inexperience, Javier enlisted the help of Sara Pérez of Mas Martinet and René Barbier of Clos Mogador, both legendary producers in Priorat, and thus, no strangers to strenuous, high-elevation farming. Motivated by a sincere belief that Galicia's forbidding terroir is, in fact, Spain's most promising, they braved the slopes. Javier and his team are considered integral leaders in the now robust movement of quality, terroir-driven grape cultivation in Spain's northwest. Over the last twenty plus years, they have pressed a permanent imprint on the institution of Spanish viticulture, instrumental in propelling Ribeira Sacra to world recognition. They also hold 10 hectares in Ribeiro from which they produce incredible white wine.
The variety of the highest importance is Mencía; it makes up a majority of Dominio do Bibei's 45 hectares under vine (the holdings total 140 hectares, in fact, but nearly 100 are stark wilderness). They also grow native grapes Brancellao, Mouratón, Sousón, Caíño, and Alicante Bouschet on the red side; Godello, Doña Blanca, and Albariño for whites. Vines on the property reach up to 100 years of age, mostly planted on well-drained schist, granite, and slate soils - elements of both Côte-Rôtie and the Mosel at once, but in a far more untamed setting. All farming is done organically and using biodynamic methods and principles. Planting density throughout the property is highly variable, depending on aspect ratio, soil type, and vine age, and each variety and parcel is vinified separately - this gives the winemaking team ample options when the time comes to blend.
From the outside, the winery itself appears a minimalist structure, barely registering as a landmark in the scope of its picturesque surroundings. Built along similar terraced lines, its simple stone white facade gives nothing away as to the complex labyrinth of tunnels underneath. Its shape is not simply an architectural choice; rather, it is a practical one. The winery operations are entirely gravity-fed, minimizing the need for handling any of the fruit once it is brought in for harvest as well as the potential for oxidation or astringency in the wine.
All fermentation is done on native yeasts with some spontaneous fermentation depending on the bottling. Where many modern wineries rely heavily on stainless steel to produce pure-fruited wines, Dominio do Bibei does so without a single steel vat on the premises. Still, the range of vessels used for fermentation and ageing is quite diverse: concrete vats, large wood tanks, oak vats, and even cement eggs are all used to varying degrees and effects. None of the wines are fined or filtered.
Twenty years on, it's safe to say Javier has achieved his goal of elevating the entire region while staying true to the unique terruño of Ribeira Sacra and his own Quiroga-Bibei. The wines hold a mirror to the stunning landscape in all its wild and lush glory. Their depth and complexity, while wholly pleasurable to drink young, are magnified with some cellaring. Tasting through the lineup is like discovering another Burgundy exists in northern Spain with a personality all its own.
Wines
Dominio do Bibei Ribeiro Blanco 'Lalume'
Dominio do Bibei Ribeira Sacra 'Lalama'